Lets get started on the relay system. Print out the schematic in Figure 13. Lay out your three relays side by side and use electrical tape to join them all together into one package. If you have a pc board and a small enclosure, that of course would be much nicer but I didn't have one at the time so I went ghetto.

With the relays joined together, follow the wiring schematic and solder it together. This was my first test so I simply soldered the resistors together to the ends of the wires and then put compression barrels on the ends so that I could tie it into the bike's wiring system later. Then I put tubes of heat shrink over each of the resistor output leads to keep them from shorting and I used some heat shrink on the input wiring to keep it neat. Finally I wrapped the whole relay system in electrical tape to keep the water off. Again I recommend a nice enclosure but this works for now.

Finally it's time to install on the bike! I used double sided servo tape to stick the relays to the small box (I think it's the ECU) underneath the seat on my R6. Then I ran wires from the relays to the lights in the very back. Make sure you use some system to mark each wire, be it a piece of tape with a description of what it feeds or some kind of color code.

I also had to add some 10Watt 10Ohm resistors from the turn signal feeds to ground so that my LEDs would blink at the proper rate. I had also installed an integrated tail light from Lockhart Philips so the turns signal relay thought that the incandescent signals were burned out and it blinked faster. Each of the wires can be crimped into the barrel connectors. I know, the wiring in the photo is a mess as this was really my test fit. I'll be back at some point to clean it up.

To tie into the bike wiring I used some wire nuts and crimp barrels. To provide the main 12V source for the peg LEDs I used the license plate voltage source by splicing in with wire nuts. Use a volt meter to figure out the polarity BEFORE you try hooking it up to your relays or you run the risk of frying your LEDs and having to affect a lot of repair work. I believe the white wire was positive and black negative but don't quote me on that.

On the 04 R6 the turn signal voltage sources came from two small plastic connectors, one gray the other black. Again use your volt meter to find the positive wire and splice into that wire with a wire nut and tie it to the relay box.

The brake light wiring terminates in a triangular plastic connector close to the seat on the left side of the bike so you may have to dig under the wiring harness a bit to find it. Inside of the connector are three leads. Use a piece of wire to pull your front brake handle against the throttle grip or have a friend hold it down for you and then use the volt meter to find the positive feed for the brake lights. Then undo the wire or have your friend let go and make sure that the voltage drops to 0. This will help you differentiate the brake light from the running light. Once you find the positive feed, splice in another wire and you should be finished!

Congratulations! Here are a few photos of what the lights look like on my bike. The blue running lights are incredibly bright so I may wind up dropping their voltage at some point so I don't anger drivers behind me.